La Herradura is a seaside resort on Spain’s Costa Tropical, about 70km east of Malaga. It sits on the horseshoe-shaped bay from which it takes its name (“La herradura” is Spanish for horseshoe). It became my home for a month during my winter away from frigid cold of the US Midwest.
Day 1:
Today was a work day so not a lot of exploring. I did go for a walk in the morning and took a few photos. It is very hilly and rugged. There’s a lookout area very close and I’m told that on a clear day you can see the rock of Gibraltar and Morocco. Today was overcast and pretty dreary. The weather today and in the next couple days is hovering in the upper 50s.
I did also stop and get some groceries. They don’t have big grocery stores like at home. I went to the bread store for bread, the meat store for meat, the fruit store for fruit. Fruit here is huge and very delicious. Everywhere you walk, there are flowers and fruit trees, avocado, mango, lemon, orange, etc. There are a lot of olive oil farms here and the olive oil is fantastic.
Internet was fine for working.
It was a great first day. 
Day 2:
The day started with a couple hours of work and then coffee at my now favorite little coffee shop. The owner is an older Spanish man and he is very patient with my Spanish and helps and corrects me when I pronounce incorrectly. 
Then I decided to hop in the car and drive to Granada, about 50 minutes away, for a couple hours. Granada is an old Spanish city and absolutely stunning. The old town is full of shops and beautiful alleys. It sits in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains. It’s known for grand examples of medieval architecture dating to the Moorish occupation and the Moorish influence is still visible. I would like to go back when I have more time.
The drive into the mountains was so pretty. The roads are fantastic here and the road signs are easy to decipher.
I was back by 3 and worked til 9 and then out for dinner: Paella 
in a little restaurant on the beach.
in a little restaurant on the beach.
Day 3:
Today was mostly a work day. I went for a long walk in the morning up to a lookout area with amazing views. There are many trails and areas to explore and I feel very safe walking here. I just cannot get over the beauty of the area. 
Day 4:
Got up early for coffee and then drove to Solobreña to do some exploring. Quaint little seaside hill town. It was very quiet in the morning. Not many people were out and about at this time. The Spaniards get a late start to their day compared to us Americans. Whitewashed buildings and flower pots on the ground and the walls. Came home to work and had dinner late: calamari (they are ginormous here!) and a salad.
Also saw my first cigarette vending machine. 
Day 5:
Woke up early to spend the morning in Malaga. I wanted to visit the fortress and Castle that overlooked the city.
There is a beautiful boardwalk that runs for miles along the city coast. I walked on it for a bit and watched the sun rise. The waves here are bigger than in La Herradura. There were a lot of couples strolling and a lot of people running.
Then I drove to the Alcazaba, a Muslim fortress built between 1057 and 1063. It’s name in Arabic means Citadel. It is breathtaking. And so hard to imagine how they built such a structure back in that day. It cost me $5 Euro for tickets to the fortress and the castle that overlooks the fortress, the Gibralfaro, which dates back to 770 BC. A white pigeon followed me for a while as I meandered through the fortress. It was the only white one I saw amidst a lot of typical grey ones. They can be a symbol of luck and transformation.
After about 2.5 hours at the fortress and castle, I walked around Malaga old town for a bit and then drove back to La Herradura.
In my apartment, I have a washing machine that’s very small but no dryer. So I dry my clothes out on the patio. This is pretty typical for Spain. You see a lot of clothes hanging outdoors. Also, at the grocery store, eggs are not refrigerated. You find them simply on the shelves. This goes in line with my grandma, who used to raise chickens and never refrigerated her eggs either.
Ended the day working til 11 pm as I had meetings in US time. Made for a long day but it was great!!
Day 6:
Today was a massive exploration day.
It started with coffee and bread with crushed tomatoe and olive oil and then I hopped in the car for the 80 mile drive to Ronda, a mountaintop city in Spain’s Malaga province that’s set dramatically above a deep gorge. This gorge (El Tajo) separates the city’s circa-15th-century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule. Puente Nuevo, a stone bridge spanning the gorge, has a lookout with amazing views. This was so worth the drive. The old town city was magnificent and the views of the countryside were spectacular! Beautiful cobblestone streets are everywhere. There were a fair number of tourists but it didn’t feel cramped. I had lunch there and meandered through the city for a couple hours before hopping in the car to drive 94k to Mijas Pueblo, the white city. Absolutely breathtaking in a whole different way. It is nestled in the mountainside at 400m above sea level. The Mediterranean views were amazing and the town is so cute. They have blue and red flower pots everywhere. I stopped for Moroccan tea. And also just walked around the village for a couple hours before heading home. Another 1.5 hours. It was a long day.
The Spanish countryside completely changes depending on where you are. It goes from rugged mountains to farming plateaus to rocky cliffs. I listen to Spanish music during my entire drive. It felt very peaceful. I pulled the car over to take pictures whenever I felt like it.
It is amazing how proud the Spanish people are of their culture and their country. They take very good care of everything. It is one of the cleanest countries I’ve ever visited in my life.
After I returned to La Herradura, I went for a walk on the beach to watch the sunset. I happened to look down and there was a little white piece of shell shaped like a heart just staring back up at me. Of course I put it in my pocket.
Day 7:
This was an ‘outside your comfort zone’ kind of day. I found a local hiking group/club on Facebook. They do long hikes on Wednesday mornings and Sundays. Today they were planning a hike about 40 minutes north of me in the Sierra Nevada mountains, and I thought ‘why not’!!
I messaged that I would join them, got the longitude/latitude coordinates to the meeting place, enjoyed a cappuccino and breakfast and took off….
First of all, let me just say that driving in the mountains in Spain is NOT for the faint of heart!!!!! While the roads are well maintained, they are very narrow with deep cliff drop offs on the side. There are many places where only one car can pass. They are very curvy and there were many times I thought to myself, what in the world am I doing. Definitely a description of white knuckle driving. And the cyclists and motorcyclists are plain crazy!!!
I made it to the meeting point about 10 minutes late so they had already started their hike. I thought, if I hike fast, I can catch them…. So I loaded up my gear and headed off. I did finally catch up to them after about an hour.
The hike was spectacular!! Very challenging in spots, the air is hot and dry, and the scenery……. Oh my! The scenery…. Every direction was a feast for the eyes.
There were about 20 hikers of all ages. The majority were Spanish speaking so this really put my ability to engage with them to a test. Everyone was so friendly and patient with my Spanish. The last part of the hike was a mountain side scramble to the peak. And we were awarded amazing views in every direction, with sheer cliff drop offs to either side. The hike was a total of 15k and took us approximately 5 hours.
Definitely a highlight. I met several nice folks and have made plans to sight see with another couple on Tuesday morning.
Day 8/9:
Day 8 was mostly a work day with a little walking sprinkled in. Day 9 on the agenda: work early, coffee, Caminito del Rey and then work late. I was very excited about this adventure.
I woke at 5, worked for 2 hours, went for a coffee and picked up 2 friends I met on my hike Sunday and off we went on a 1.5 hour drive north. Got home at 3:00, worked til 9:30 and went to bed exhausted 
El Caminito del Rey (The King’s Little Path) is a walkway, pinned along the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro. The original construction began in 1901 to provide workers a means of transportation during construction of a hydroelectric plant. The walkway had fallen into disrepair and was partially closed for over a decade. After four years of extensive repairs and renovations, the walkway re-opened in 2015. It has been known in the past as the “world’s most dangerous walkway” following five deaths in 1999 and 2000. It felt very sturdy and safe now and the views were magnificent!! I am sure my mouth was gaping the majority of the 2 hour walk.
Google El Caminito del Rey if you want to learn more. Well worth the visit and $10 euro to enter.
Day 10:
Today was another long work day so not many photos. The only photos I took were this morning when I went for coffee and breakfast. I found another little coffee shop that I really like. Their breakfasts are delicious. I ordered a cappuccino and an egg dish to include avocado and bread. The entire meal was 4 euro.
Some observations about restaurants: dogs are more than welcome everywhere in spain and dogs are very popular. They are also surprisingly well behaved. You may find 4-5 dogs sitting with their various owners at tables just patiently waiting. The waiters and waitresses are not in a hurry to turn tables. Restaurants are a gathering place and people come to socialize. Waiters don’t check on you and if you need something, you need to get their attention. You need to ask for the cheque when you are ready. They won’t just bring it to you or ask if you are ready for it, as I think that would seem rude to them. Food is inexpensive. You can have an awesome meal for just a few euros. The chef gets to determine how his/her food is prepared – they know best for preparation and flavor. It is rude to throw out a whole bunch of changes to what you want on the menu. You get what you order. The food here is fresh and delicious and I love the way they prepare it. Simple and amazing ingredients. The food is not oversalted like in the US. You can actually taste the food and not go home needing loads of water due to the salt….. 
I like the restaurant ‘way’ here.
Day 11:
Today was an early work day because I had an evening flight to Prague, Czech Republic to visit a sweet international student from 10 years ago.
The day started with coffee. And then I made my own breakfast of bread, cheese and fruit.
Take a look at the little colorful recycle bin. These are dotted all over the town. Recycling is important here.
And my flight to Prague!!! 3 hours and landed in a completely different culture, climate, and country. I am happy to explore this new place for the next 3 days with my sweet friend.
Check out my blog on Prague!
Day 12:
Today was a long work day. I did go for coffee in the morning and also stopped at the Panadería (bread shop). Bread is called pan in Spanish. It was 80 cents for the fresh bread. I also went to the grocery store to get some almond milk. I took a photo of the milk section. They don’t have any refrigerated milk here. Only unpasteurized milk stocked on the shelves. I also saw a Spanish tortilla in the refrigerated section and decided to buy it to try. The almond milk and tortilla was 2 euros. I then went to the fruit store for papaya, guava, lemon, kiwi and banana. It totaled 6 euro and the lady gave me a guava to eat on the way out.
The hibiscus on my balcony are also blooming. So pretty!!
Day 13:
The day started early with a couple hours of work. Then off to the coffee shop for a cappuccino and pan con tomate y aceite (bread with tomato and oil) for breakfast. I decided to go on a little excursion to a small hill town about 15 minutes away, Frigiliana. It is known for it’s Moorish old quarter and narrow streets decorated with mosaics. There is a 16th century palace that now houses a sugar cane factory. It is a gorgeous little town with a fun energy and feel about it. There is a pretty welcome sign at the entrance.
It was so fun to walk around and pop into the little shops. I also stopped for a coffee at an outdoor cafe.
I stopped at a church, which had an adjacent cemetery. This was breathtaking. And there were people stopping by to deliver flowers and light candles. It is so well cared for.
Went back to La Herradura mid afternoon to finish working. I ended the night with an octopus and vegetable dish that was delicious and sat talking with an older couple from Cambridge, England. He was 9 when the Americans came to his town to build an airstrip to support the bombers for WW2. We had a wonderful conversation.
A really nice day.
Day 14:
Today I woke early and got a couple hours of work in before heading down for breakfast of cappuccino and bread with tomato and olive oil. The weather in the morning is nice, in the low 60s typically when the sun comes up. I then popped in my car and drove to Almuñecar, a city about 10 minutes from my Airbnb. I parked near the beach and started walking, with no specific plans.
The surf here was a little rough and the water is COLD 
. That said, the water is beautiful… so blue!
. That said, the water is beautiful… so blue!I found an overlook with a memorial to the only survivor of the Umayyad dynasty. He landed on the coast of Almuñecar in 755. His statue is at the foot of the rock of San Cristobal. I walked to the top and had amazing view of the sea and of Almuñecar.
Then I just meandered through the city. One thing to note, roundabouts are everywhere here. There is no such thing as a 4 way stop, it’s all roundabouts and the traffic moves very smoothly here. They also use the center of the roundabout for decoration, plants, statues, etc.
There was a beautiful church and the doors were open so I was able to go in.
It was a nice morning of exploring before heading back to the Airbnb for work. Internet hs been sufficient for work.
Day 15/16:
Day 15 was a long work day and I picked up a previous international student from the train station. She is going to spend a couple days with me! Day 16, woke up early and knocked out a few hours of work before coffee and breakfast. And off to Frigiliana to show my student this lovely little mountain village town, followed by Nerja, a coastal town nearby. We explored the beautiful streets and shops of Frigiliana. A watercolor artist had his shop open so we went in and I couldn’t help but buy one of his paintings. I am exciting to hang it up at home to remember this trip . He was German but has lived here for many years. After spending ample time there, we hopped in the car for the short drive to Nerja, a larger city just down the road. We parked and started walking. Stopped for lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea, splurged on gelato (i had mango and she had pineapple). Today was the first time she has seen the coast so we spent a fair amount of time near the water.
. He was German but has lived here for many years. After spending ample time there, we hopped in the car for the short drive to Nerja, a larger city just down the road. We parked and started walking. Stopped for lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea, splurged on gelato (i had mango and she had pineapple). Today was the first time she has seen the coast so we spent a fair amount of time near the water.The lantana here are HUGE!!! The flowers here are sooo pretty.
I haven’t noticed any annoying flying bugs. Win!
Also, if you ever visit, please don’t be in a hurry for things. Be prepared to wait at restaurants, enjoy the experience, don’t get annoyed at the pace of life. Instead, soak it in, appreciate the stillness and tranquility and get in pace with the heartbeat of this beautiful place. I have slept better in the past 23 days than in the last 10 years. It is good for the soul, mind and body.
Day 17:
What a day! 9 miles of walking. Breakfast and cappuccino and then off to Granada. I really wanted to visit La Alhambra today. It is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and one of the best-preserved palaces of the historic Islamic world, and also contains notable examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture and an amazing art museum with works dating back to the 1500s. The complex began construction in the 1200s and after the Spanish conquest, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella (where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition)! It was marvelous, so beautiful, so much thought and detail put into the construction.
We also walked around Granada, did a little shopping. We stopped for a snack (I had a savory crepe with avocado and mozzarella), and watched the end of a wedding. The people in attendance were soooo fancy. It was like dressing up for Prom. 
We also saw lots of music in the streets. We both said we loved the energy of this city. It has a magical quality.
We also saw lots of music in the streets. We both said we loved the energy of this city. It has a magical quality.We ended the night with dinner in La Herradura and I again ordered octopus. Delicious!!
Even though my student speaks amazing English, we decided at times that I would speak to her in Spanish and she speak to me in English. It was great practice for me and she was able to help me with many words and context. She is so patient with my Spanish
Day 18:
A trip to Malaga and Marbella:
Today started with cappuccinos 
. One at my favorite cafe around the corner and one in Malaga. We walked through the streets and to the port. There are a lot of park green spaces in the cities here. We enjoyed exploring and looking at the architecture. There were a lot of people out and about today. We spent about 3 hours in Malaga and then hopped in the car for the short 30 minute drive to Marbella, a seaside town. This place was beautiful but VERY touristy. We found a place that offered churros con chocolate and accidentally ordered the large plate! This shop opened originally in Madrid in 1894. The churros were amazing! There is a lot of art and statues in Marbella and a number of Salvador Dali’s works. I took a photo of Eduardo Soriano’s “Monument to the Freedom of Expression”. It is beautiful, made more beautiful by the phrases that surround it, such as “There is no place so narrow where thought cannot be raised to heaven” and “Freedom does not die, it is born and sleeps daily.”
. One at my favorite cafe around the corner and one in Malaga. We walked through the streets and to the port. There are a lot of park green spaces in the cities here. We enjoyed exploring and looking at the architecture. There were a lot of people out and about today. We spent about 3 hours in Malaga and then hopped in the car for the short 30 minute drive to Marbella, a seaside town. This place was beautiful but VERY touristy. We found a place that offered churros con chocolate and accidentally ordered the large plate! This shop opened originally in Madrid in 1894. The churros were amazing! There is a lot of art and statues in Marbella and a number of Salvador Dali’s works. I took a photo of Eduardo Soriano’s “Monument to the Freedom of Expression”. It is beautiful, made more beautiful by the phrases that surround it, such as “There is no place so narrow where thought cannot be raised to heaven” and “Freedom does not die, it is born and sleeps daily.” We made it back to La Herradura for the sunset. .
.A really nice day today. Tomorrow morning my sweet student leaves for Barcelona. I am soooo happy we were able to spend this time together and look forward to our next meeting.
Day 19:
Today we woke early to go to the airport. It was also a work day so I didn’t get a lot of exploring time. I did hop in my car around lunchtime to find a fun and pretty location for a bite to eat. I found one and had a delicious bowl of fresh fruit with muesli and yogurt. I also took the coastline road home. What a stunning drive.
Yes, there are nude beaches dotted along the coast. And before anyone asks, the answer is a big NO!! I will save humanity from that visible torture. 
I am on the countdown to my return home and I am not ready to say goodbye to this beautiful country.
Day 20:
Woke and worked a bit and then down to the cafe for my morning cappuccino. The owner now knows me and what I want when I arrive. This morning he said, ‘buen dia. Un cappuccino esta mañana? Y comida o no?’
My answer: ‘buen dia, sólo un cappuccino esta mañana por favor’.
I enjoyed my cappuccino and watched the busyness of the day unfold. There’s a lady in town whose job is to sell lottery tickets. She wears a green and yellow vest and walks around town dispersing tickets and taking money. She stays busy.
I worked another couple hours or so after my cappuccino and then went down for food to a little restaurant on the beach. Another cappuccino and tomatoes, avocado, mango and burrata cheese with pesto. Oh my. Delish!! Then I hopped in the car to drive to Motril, a city about 30 minutes away, population around 60,000. This was definitely a city. It was very industrial and agricultural. There were numerous areas where they were growing fruit and a lot of greenhouses everywhere in the countryside. I didn’t find any cute little historic parts of town. There was a big beautiful park in the center of the city with a church situated at the top of the hill, overlooking the city. I spent a little bit of time there before heading back to La Herradura. School was just getting out at about two in the afternoon and I was surrounded by families walking back to their homes for siesta. I witness the sweetest thing. There were a number of children walking with their families and stopped at a crosswalk to cross a busy highway. A local police officer was directing traffic. As the children were waiting for the light to turn green, he was talking to them, giving them high-fives, kissing them on the forehead. You could tell the children loved this part of their day spent with the police officer.
Siesta is important here. Everything closes down from about 2-5 pm: stores, restaurants, doctor offices, everything. People spend the afternoon relaxing with their families. Things start to liven up again about 6 pm and many eat dinner around 9-10 pm.
Tomorrow is my last day here. I heard a winter storm is going to blast it’s way across the midwest. Lovely.
Day 21:
This morning I went for my last cappuccino at the sweet little cafe down the street. Today when I came in, I didn’t even have to order. I sat down and a cappuccino appeared at my table. . So did a complimentary pan con fruta. I thanked the owner for all of the wonderful cappuccinos and told him I hope to see him again someday soon, all in Spanish
. So did a complimentary pan con fruta. I thanked the owner for all of the wonderful cappuccinos and told him I hope to see him again someday soon, all in Spanish Returned to La Herradura and ordered some calamari for lunch. And then simply walked around for a while. Worked in the evening but did get an opportunity to take a quick break to watch the last sunset. It was spectacular last night.
I am ready to sleep in my bed, see my kitties and my friends/family. This will not be my last trip to Spain. It is an amazing country and I definitely want to return… pronto.
